Stromberg Carburetors, or what I found to make my Series 2 run great!

Stromberg Carburetors, some people have no problem with them, some people just plain hate them. 

To start with, you have realize that the Series 2 E-type had pollution controls on the carb the earlier versions did not have to contend with. The Series 2 E-type was never going to out run or out perform the Series 1 E-type.  Then along came the Series 3,  with twice as many carbs and cylinders!

My biggest complaint about my Series 2 E-type was the lack of pickup at a dead start, the hesitation the Strombergs had. (I also had an Automatic Transmission so that made it even worse)

The first thing to do, if you haven't already, is rebuild your old Carbs. I’ve had my E-type 39 years now so I have rebuilt them a few times. It’s not that difficult but its too much to put in a one-page newsletter.  Get a couple rebuild kits and do a Google search or YouTube and have at it. There is a lot of good info out there. And it’s pretty simple, there isn't much you can do wrong.

Years ago I removed the inner rear butterfly valves inside the intake manifold. These valves send the fuel mixture around the heated manifold during “lower idle speeds” heating up the fuel mixture for better exhaust emissions.   Removing the butterfly valves sends the fuel mixture straight thru the manifold and into the engine helping to eliminate the flat spot hesitation it had.  I have to admit, it did help!

I have also had more problems at colder temperatures and when the car is just warming up.

Colder temperatures:  A cool spring or fall day, I can drive for 30 miles on the highway and my water temperature will be on the low side of the temp gauge.  I pull up to a stop sign and I need to pull the choke out a little to keep it idling well. This gets a little old after a while.

Warming Up:  Same thing, if it's not well up to temperature, pull out the choke!

Lately, after my engine rebuild, I was tired of pulling out the choke all the time at stop signs.  It seemed like the engine was just not getting enough fuel at low idle speeds and there is no adjustment for this.  The needle valve in a Series 2 is fixed and not adjustable. Well, not quite. The rebuild instructions tell you to install the needle so the shoulder is even with the piston. However, it can be pushed in and installed higher up in the piston.  Just fit it higher up and tighten down the set screw.

I went out for my first test drive after doing this. The car had just been started, not warmed up at all. Drove a 1/2 mile to a stop sign, shut off the choke. Expecting a cough, stutter, putt putt, when I pressed on the gas pedal, but no, the engine revved up, wheels spun and almost kicked up some gravel. Wow, boy did that make a difference!  Running great!