68 E type Thermo switch

Daniel-
Thanks,
I did talk to Mr. Owen of Brown's Lane Jag and he does have a switeh with 1 spade as you described. He remembers you, "a good customer". Aren't we all, these toys are not cheap, "but keep me out of the bars". He says it is not much shorter than the molded type for the v12's. and the spade sticks straight out.

My switch, which suffered me investigating its innards, is long gone. It had 2 spades, bend downward. I think it was original with the car, since I do not remember it ever being changed. Mr Owens said I can try to bend this new (old style)switch spade downward at my own risk (naturally)and see if it will fit. I did order it. Boy, it was expensive, over $150. Hope my wife doesn't spot this on the list of "stuff".

I assume that I can run my second wire, a ground wire, to one of the mounting bolts. I have not figured out how to measure the clearance between the end of the radiator and my stone grill. I better do that before I wreak another switch. This one is too expensive.

By the way I still have an extra relay for the fans if someone wants it. I think it is equivilant to LU SRB501. It will just sit with all the other extra parts I seem to get and not use.

68 E-type, Seattle

Grrrrrr......... bloody big suppliers......

I would definately not chop up the car. Keep trying to find the original switch. Just because a couple of the suppliers won't stock it doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

Call Tom Owen at Brown's Lane Jaguar Parts 1-905-294-4946. He has several of the series 1 spade type switches in stock. I was just talking to him (3 p.m. EST) and they are sitting on the shelf in front of him. Tom's a great guy too, very knowledgeable and honest.

Daniel
2002 X-type
1968 E-type
1958 MkIX
1952 XK120

Interesting-
I spoke to Bob ant SNG Barnett and he says that the switch described is no longer available. Same story from XK's Unlimited.
The only switch they are aware of is the one used in the V-12 engines. The flat faced switch I want was used inall the 6 cylinder engines up to 1970, but none are made today, none available, so they say.

So, back to my choices.
1. Put in the "too long switch" and cut away the grill in front of the radiator, I can probably do that with a grinder. I'll have to figure exactly where to cut. It is in a very convenient spot!

2. Leave the fans wired to my spare switch on the dash inside the car, and try to temember to turn it on and off.

3. Keep looking for an old switch.

Any further thoughts?

68 E-type, Seattle

Take your old switch out and put in on the desk in front of you. I assume your car, like mine, has the Series 1 style switch with spade connector. Call British Auto USA/SNG Barratt at 800-452-4787 and describe your problem. They have listed in their current catalog on page 102 the following: Thermostatic fan switch, E-type S1 single spade, part number C18559. Cost is USD $28.87.

That should do it!

Daniel
2002 X-type
1968 E-type
1958 MkIX
1952 XK120

Thanks for comments.
I wired the spare switch on right side of the dash to turn on the fans.
However I do want to figure out how to get the correct thermo switch.
My car is an OTS, purchased by my brother in 1967 in Santa Cruz. It has never been wrecked, always driven except for a couple of storage periods. Never restored but always maintained and rebuilt as things wear. I keep it as perfect as money can, but drive it daily, except for heavy rain days or snow. It looks like it just came out of the show room, but we all know that there are lots of little things not quite right all the time.

Still looking for a switch.

68 E-type, Seattle

Had EXACTLY the same problem on my 1968 FHC Series 1.5; bought exactly the same thermo switch from the same supplier. The bonnet would crush the connector when closed, eventually leading to a shorting out problem.

Simply ignore that particular supplier's bad advice and buy the correct thermo switch from one of the other suppliers.

Daniel Thompson
2002 X-type
1968 E-type
1958 MkIX
1952 XK120

You have either a radiator that is mounted incorrectly or your stone guard has been moved/bent. You should have 2.5 to 3 inches between the rad. and the guard. As far as the other is concerned the switch is not the usual suspect--the relay is. Normally a tap on the relay while the temp is up will free it. Do not forget these cars need a foam packing between the rad. and the bonnet to work properly.

George Camp

Here are a few observations/suggestions.

I have heard that the XK's improved switch doesn't fit some cars, but don't know why. It must work at most times, or they wouldn't carry it. But if it doesn't work for you, I wouldn't modify the car to fit the switch, that's crazy. I believe that SNG Barrat (BA) should be able to supply a correct fitting part, and other big dealers probably also have stock.

If,however, you don't have any luck, here's another suggestion. The makers of most aftermarket fans have available accessory kits which include thermostatic switches. The fact is, anyone's switch should be fine with anyone's fan if you are using a relay (which you are in a Series II). None of these are stock in appearance, but neither is a manual switch, and I would prefer to see this function be automatic, since overheating can be catastrophic. If you are interested in pursuing this alternative, see my fan FAQ (http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0008.html), and follow the links to the various vendors. The column labeled "Thermostat" will tell you which vendors have kits, and links to the vendors are supplied at the end of the FAQ.

Mike Frank

Been there 10 years ago with a Series 2 but did not have the length problem. Mine fit fine but the wire connections were a tad different, a plug I think; perhaps the replacement otter switch is different now. You might try another vendor like British Auto in New Hampshire. Both BA and XK's have technical staff that should be able to give you advice, but the '68 is a Series 1.5 and a litle bit different in the bonnet and not everyone has a lot of experience with them. I thought the difference was just around the headlight area though. Anyhow, my new switch failed on a hot day coming home from an event so I just changed the way the connections were made near the top horizontal brace (going to the picture frame to the radiator) so that the fans come on with the ignition switch all the time. Its easy to change the connection back for Concours - 30 seconds when bonnet is up; no cutting required - just unplugging and replugging (I may have installed a ground wire to the frame - can't remember). British Wiring in Indiana sells the proper British connections and crimp tool to achieve same. Many will have hearburn with this solution. It works for me in Oregon and I've been going around this way for about 5 years. I only put 1,000 miles or so a year on the car - no winter miles, except for monthy 20 mile excersize, so a fast warm up is not important for creature comfort. George Camp is also very good with these cars and will probably read this. We should ask George if a fast warm up is essential for long engine life before trying this solution. Tell us about your car, OTS FHC or 2+2?

Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC's