Does anyone have any pointers or experience in drilling and taping a hole in the battery posts for the helmit style connector? I do have a drill press to restrict depth if need be. I would imagine lead could grab and snap bits. I would think that threads in lead would be a waste of time. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster

Submitted by SC38-21185J on Mon, 04/05/2010 - 10:06

I agree. I don't rely on the screw to actually pull down the cap. It's just for keeping the cap from flopping off, and of course, for anal concours judges.

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Mon, 04/05/2010 - 09:52

Patrick I can not add much to what you have been told except--before you drill mark your bit with tape or such to ensure you do not drill too deep. What type of screw you use will be your call but tap the terminal with wood to get it secure before you screw down--if you count on the screw to pull it tight you will be dissapointed. Properly installed the helmet head is as good or better than the clamp type.

Submitted by SC38-21185J on Mon, 04/05/2010 - 09:21

Disagreement on these forums? Never heard of such a thing.

I would consider this screw to be one of the "replaceable items" such as fan belts and water-heater valve controls, half of which are gold anodized these days. It is important that your car starts and run, so the battery contact is of utmost importance. It is not entirely out of the realm of possibility that if a #6 screw gets weak or stripped out on a battery post, that it should be replaced with a #10. So would you be expected to replace your battery for the sake of this screw? I sure wouldn't think so.

The #10 seems to fit much better in the cap recess than a #6. I would think either size would be okay, but I'd make it a straight slot. If I got hit for screw size, I'd be asking the judge for proof that it's wrong. (This is the kind of minutia BS that pushes people away from concours).

P

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Sun, 06/15/2003 - 00:21

Patrick:
I think the original screw was more like a #6 and wasn't stainless but was a pan head sheetmetal screw. Jerry Parkhill had these a couple of years ago. It was the year someone gave every E-Type in Portland a 0.01 x 2 screw deduct for non-originality:-) I remember it well.

Promise no one will read this except you and me;-) I use a number 10 x 1" stainless phillips head with a stainless washer and place my battery with the terminals on the outside so I can get the largest and longest screwdrive I own to really tighten the helmut and I carry a small phillips head in the cubby because I've been dead in the water too many times because of these original helmuts. I buff the helmuts with a fine wire brush and clearcoat them. They look great but are just about totally wrong.

When drilling, undersize the bit two sizes - the lead is really soft and you don't want to take too much out, just enough to get the screw started and assure it goes in straight.

Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC's

Submitted by mcfoo@columbus… on Sat, 06/14/2003 - 13:59

Use slotted #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws. You might use a slightly larger drill bit than that called for #10. Drill straight down just a little, pull the bit out and clean the lead out. Repeat, repeat, etc. Go very slowly.