I just purchased some vintage style lap belts from XK's Unlimited and was curious if anyone has any "Lessons Learned" regarding the installation.

I am expecting that the floor panel heat shields will be an issue if I anchor the belts to the flat part of the floor rather than the inboard and outboard tunnels.

Any reinforcing of floor around anchors?

Thanks

Kris Gamble

Submitted by pascal@jcna.com on Mon, 04/28/2003 - 17:04

Stew...

damn... too late to leave the sheet metal in Miami.. I just got to Phoenix..:-) I wonder how many judges apply that...

so a clear cooat paint is almost enough to bump a car into C16... not very logic either...

Pascal Gademer
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKRCoupe
99 XJR

Submitted by joannarose@ade… on Sun, 04/27/2003 - 20:47

Well Guys,

The "Jaguar XK 120 Restoration" manual by Kelsey Books states the factory finish was enamel.

I wouldnÆt bet the farm on it because some of these publications are great for photographs but pretty shallow for original data. I do know the paint on the other Jags in the barn where mine is, is pretty thick and enamel-like, so it very well might be.

Joanna

1954 XK120 DHC

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Sun, 04/27/2003 - 01:33

Pascal:
The primary test of originality is, "Did it leave the factory that way or was it a factory authorized-dealer installed option during the year of delivery." Please deduct 25 points from your score per page Chapter VI, Page 5, Item 2 "Paint Finish - Wrong Color or Trick Paint", initial the nonauthentic box, and send the revised score to Bill Streitenberger so he can make the appropriate change for that year:) Good of you to volinteer this; most judges can't tell:) JCRC is working on it; the unreasonable 25 point deduction part. Best you leave the roof, bonnet, and four fenders home. The deduct would only be 16.2 then. Heck, I forgot the doors (figure the hatch as a door and everything totals 19.2 still less than 25:) Very, very, difficult to discern the clear coat on the long skinny pieces left:)I'll buy the first round in Phoenix!
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC's

Submitted by pascal@jcna.com on Sat, 04/26/2003 - 16:26

Stew,

Really? my E-type was repainted with clear coat ( by the Jaguar dealer ), never got deducted...

hmmm... better watch out in Phoenix... are you judging? :-) although I'm probably going to bail out of C16 and go display... won't have time to detail the car... I'd rather spend more time taking pictures...

Pascal Gademer
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKRCoupe
99 XJR

Submitted by joannarose@ade… on Sat, 04/26/2003 - 08:39

Stew, Im not real worried about ever "showing" the car, but Im a believer in keeping it as original as I can. Im not about to go hunting for the proper 3.4 engine because I like the idea of building the 3.8 that I have, but when it comes to body and interior, appearance, I want it original.

I donÆt know if I could get automotive laquer in the original Jaguar colors, and Im not even sure if my HVLP (high volume low pressure) setup will be sufficient to do a car properly.

I do understand how a judge could consider "base and clear" as trick. I remember the old metallic base coat, then a semi-transparent color coat, followed by multiple clear coats. That was pretty much the definition of a trick paint job. This is exactly why the Forum has been so helpful for me.

Hopefully when the reference manuals get here, I can find out the particulars. My shop manual came yesterday, and Im ready to get after the wheel cylinders.

Thx Stew, bye for now.

Joanna

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Fri, 04/25/2003 - 19:45

Joanna
A clear coat may be considerred a "trick paint" by some judges (not that you're going to show the car (maybe in driven though?). I'd stick to what your familiar with, the lacquer, which I think was the original finish. A former chief judge in Ariziona did his Mark II in lacquer about 15 years ago with impressive results. But, can you still get lacquer automotive finishes?
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC's

Submitted by joannarose@ade… on Fri, 04/25/2003 - 16:02

Bob, that color scheme is exactly the kind of cosmetic data Im looking for. I just canÆt imagine this car being sent out of the factory with BRG paint and a red interior. Maybe there was a 1954 XK120 Christmas edition???? John, I checked all the spots you mentioned and the car was definitely BRG.

Stew, I bet that 1950 Mercury would be quite an attraction at a Jag show..... I can see the primer gray hood and jacked up rear........

Pascal and Brandon, thanks.

I design and build leaded stained glass windows, and re-finish antiques for a living, so Im very anxious to apply my skills to this Jag restoration. Im going to solder all the electrical leads properly, and replace most of the wiring. IÆve been spraying laquer on furniture for years, so I can strip and prime the car, but have no experience with the "acrylic base and clear coat" friends are telling me about. SOOOOOOOO much to learn! I wish I had started studying a year ago too!

I really appreciate all the help here, thanks again,

Joanna

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Wed, 04/23/2003 - 19:58

Joanna:
You sound like the type of person JCNA needs. There's no need to have an absolutely stock car, in fact if you take a look at the first question in the new JCNA Judge's Test, and look up the answer on the back page (all available on this website on the concours page), a chopped and channeled '50 Mercury with a 12 cylinder Jaguar engine is eligible for entry in JCNA Concours events. If you like what you see here join, you can join right here on this website, your membership will go automatically (read Pascally) to your local club.
Thanks
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC's

Submitted by pascal@jcna.com on Wed, 04/23/2003 - 16:53

Joanna,

these forums are made for people to ask questions and (hopefully/usually) get answers from those who know... no need to get worried about taking advantage...

there are many JCNA members who have modified cars... My own E-type is far from stock... Nobody frowns upon modified cars... ok... unless someone butchered an E-type, removed its heart and sould to drop in some chevy lummp :-)

Pascal Gademer
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKRCoupe
99 XJR

Submitted by bbshriver@eart… on Wed, 04/23/2003 - 16:44

Regarding the seatbelts, are they traditional "lap" belts or, multi point (3 or more)? If they are just lap belts, what I did in my 140 was to simply drill a hole on each side of my (bucket) seats. My belts (from SNG Barrat) came with the eyebolt kit including large washers etc. I don't think that you'll have any trouble with the heat shields... if nothing else, you should be able to simply drill through them. I think that my bolts avoided the shields altogether though.

Regarding your "originality" question for joining the JCNA, I'll point out that my XK 140 had an Independant rear suspension, 3.8 L triple carb engine, all round disc brakes (Wilwood in front) bucket seats, custom interior etc. (see http://www.knightmares.com/jaguar), and will soon have ~300 Net HP, and a 5 speed. I'm a member of JCNA.
Also Gary Hagopian (president of JCNA) has a VERY modified E-type that he uses for racing. JCNA is much more than the traditional "concours" events. There are track days, slaloms, and autocross, as well as plenty of vendor discounts. You'll still be eligible to attend any of those events with a non-original car, but you'll be in a higher class.

B. Shriver
XK 140 OTS MC-E
http://www.shriverperformance.com

Submitted by joannarose@ade… on Wed, 04/23/2003 - 16:29

Once again, I would like to thank you all for the info.
I would never have gotten involved with this project if I didnÆt have some great back-up.
A good friend and long time Jag guru has offered to walk me through the engine rebuild in his shop, step by step. IÆm very anxious to get hands on experience. I can also leave the heavy-lifting to another friend who has built jag racing engines for Jaguar Group 44. I just get worried that IÆm taking advantage here, picking everyoneÆs brain. I will pour over as many books and as much reference data as possible, but nothing beats chatting with people who have done it before, and watching forum post as knowledgeable people debate restoration topics. I emailed the closest JCNA (in Maryland) about membership, but didnÆt get any response. With the wrong engine ( and modified to 325 hp) in my 120, is there any point to JCNA membership since my car wont be stock?

Submitted by mcfoo@columbus… on Mon, 04/21/2003 - 11:39

The original color can be found under the door or boot lid trim. You can also request a "Heritage Certificate" from JCNA. Go to the Library section. For restoration you should get a parts manual and the Maintenance Manual, available from various internet sites. There is also an XK120 manual that was produced for an AGM many years ago. I thought it was available on this site but can't find it.

Submitted by joannarose@ade… on Mon, 04/21/2003 - 10:21

Thank you Dick, John and Kris.

First let me apologize to Kris. I should have started another thread instead of butting in on KrisÆs seat belt post, but I just couldnÆt imagine what was in my 120 being able to anchor anything.

It did have a walnut tone to it and it was finished with a satin sealer, but it was just 1/4 inch.

My 1954 XK120 DHC is British Racing Green, but there is over-spray on the red interior, so its hard to tell what the original color might have been. Trying to find a complete guide of all the body and trim combinations offered in 1954 isnÆt easy. If anyone has a good source, please let me know.

I will try to restore this car as original as possible, but I donÆt see how I would ever enter it in a show. It has a 3.8 engine with a pair of 2 inch SUÆs, and no matching numbers anywhere. The seats are leather, but dash looks vinyl, so I just have tons to learn before I start the upholstery.

Thx again for all your help,

Joanna

Submitted by SW03-09811 on Sat, 04/19/2003 - 18:54

Joanna,
The better and more original material for 120 floorboards will be found at your specialty hardwood store. You should find some 3/8", 5-ply
birch or similar hard plywood, finished on both sides. If they have a weatherproof version, fine. In any case, after cutting it to size, you should
wipe it with an ebony stain to give it the correct color and then seal it (edges too) with a coat of satin polyeurethane or an equivalent clear finish.

Floorboards and seat belts are not compatible topics. Please get some additional advice before installing your seat belts. They must be
securely anchored in back of the seats, only after the area has been adequately reinforced.

Good luck,
Dick Cavicke